Bespoke shirt and Suits

The first time I met Ajit Singh, I offended him.

It was the fall of 2010, and I was in Kolkata, looking for a tailor to turn several meters of shockingly expensive wool into a suit for my future father-in-law.

While my bride-to-be was trying on lehengas in New Market, I was in Paris Tailors skeptically fingering the lapels of Mr. Singh’s suits.

“Is this fully canvassed?” I asked, holding the lapel of a suit between thumb and forefinger. The 83-year-old Mr. Singh looked like I had slapped him in the face.

I was feeling for one of the hallmarks of a well-made suit, a layer of canvas placed between the outer fabric and the lining. It is the difference between a suit that will look good for the rest of your life and a suit that will last for a few dry cleanings.

Mr. Singh, who – he later informed me – has been tailoring suits since 1946, took immediate umbrage at my question. “Come here, young man,” he said, and proceeded to show me a half-finished suit, with the all-important canvas middle layer exposed. “I know all the latest styles,” he told me and pulled out that year’s edition of the Sears catalogue, which did considerably less for my confidence in the quality of his craftsmanship than the sight of that wool canvas.

Luckily, my father-in-law inadvertently diverted Mr. Singh’s indignation toward himself, by introducing me as his son-in-law.

“What law?” Mr. Singh exclaimed. “Sir, let me tell you something, this in-law business was brought in by the British. Indians never used this term before. He is your son.”

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My father, as Mr. Singh insisted I called my wife’s father, got his suit, and I was also measured at Mr. Singh’s urging. The next day, I received my new favorite suit, a light gray linen number for the princely sum of 5,000 rupees ($90 at current exchange rates). It fit better than the far more expensive suits I had ordered from an outfit on the famed Savile Row in London.

Two years later, I was back in Kolkata, and I took the opportunity to get more suits.

I had difficulty finding the place. The omnipresent street hawkers seemed to have multiplied in New Market, filling the sidewalks and spilling onto the streets. I nearly walked past the store, since the sign is obscured by larger hoardings for Moustache Jeans and the umbrellas of the hawkers unless you are standing directly opposite the shop.see more