Bespoke shirt and Suits
The first time I met Ajit Singh, I offended him. It was the fall of 2010, and I was in Kolkata, looking for a tailor to turn several meters of shockingly expensive wool into a suit for my future father-in-law. While my bride-to-be was trying on lehengas in New Market, I was in Paris Tailors skeptically fingering the lapels of Mr. Singh’s suits. “Is this fully canvassed?” I asked, holding the lapel of a suit between thumb and forefinger. The 83-year-old Mr. Singh looked like I had slapped him in the face. I was feeling for one of the hallmarks of a well-made suit, a layer of canvas placed between the outer fabric and the lining. It is the difference between a suit that will look good for the rest of your life and a suit that will last for a few dry cleanings. Mr. Singh, who – he later informed me – has been tailoring suits since 1946, took immediate umbrage at my question. “Come here, young man,” he said, and proceeded to show me a half-finished suit, with the all-important ...